SignVideo ENG-44
Field Mixer Calibration
by Eddy
Grabczewski
The aim of recalibration is to set
the ENG-44 mixer output voltages to a standard value and to check the
output limiting. Study our chart of Line
Levels for the ENG-44 and keep this as a reference.
WARRANTY
You may feel nervous recalibrating
your brand new ENG-44 and my advice is not to do so if you mixer is
still under warranty. Return it back to the SignVideo if you have any
problems during this period.
After warranty then you have little
to loose in recalibrating the mixer yourself. Over time the output voltages
may drift and you should know when this happens. Learning how to do
this will give you more control and confidence over your recordings.
Since I have no inside knowledge
of how SignVideo calibrates their mixer then I must own up to the fact
and warn you that following these instructions is at your own risk.
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
To perform a recalibration, you'll
need the following equipment:
1. a digital voltmeter with an AC
voltage scale from 0.0 Vrms to 10.0 Vrms. The leads should terminate
in crocodile clips.
2. three short XLR (male) to XLR
(female) cables. You'll need to connect the voltmeter to one of these
cables, between pins 2(hot) and 3 (cold).
3. an audio signal-generator is
useful for the second part of the recalibration procedure. If you don't
have a dedicated generator then you try using a laptop with suitable
software (e.g. TrueRTA) or a CD player with a specially prepared disc.
Setup the signal so that it outputs a 1 kHz sine wave at 0.775 Vrms
(0 dBu).
4. A Philips head screwdriver.
5. A small screwdriver with a non-conducting
handle. This is used to adjust variable resistors.
6. A pair of headphones, to hear
the line-up tone.
FAMILIARIZATION
1.Place the mixer on a table top,
with the front panel knobs facing you. The top black aluminium panel
is the one you'll need to remove. The screws are a bit stiff, but if
you hold the Philips head screwdriver firmly and push hard and twist
anticlockwise then they will loosen. There are many screws and you need
to remove them all. Don't bother undoing the bottom panel. There is
nothing of any interest under this panel.
2. Underneath the lid you'll find
a circuit board of course. Study this and you'll see five variable resistors
in blue boxes with the following adjacent labels printed on the green
circuit board:
-
TONE LEVEL - adjusts the signal
level of the line-up tone
-
LIMITER - adjusts the cut-in
point of the limiter
-
LEFT LEVEL - adjusts the signal
level on the left output channel
-
RIGHT LEVEL - adjusts the
signal level on the right channel.
-
SLATE LEVEL - adjusts the
signal level of the slate microphone.
3. The next thing to note is the
VU meter's ten LEDs. Each one fades-in to a maximum brightness and then
fades out gradually. By applying a 1 kHz sine wave at 0.775 Vrms between
pins 2 and 3 of the MIC/LINE inputs (set to LINE LEVEL) it's possible
to tabulate when each LED reaches maximum brighness. Setting the XLR
Outputs to LINE level and adjusting the MASTER gain whilst measuring
the LEFT OUT and RIGHT OUT voltages across pins 2 and 3. Here are my
results; yours may differ slightly:
-
-20 LED = 0.250 Vrms (-10
dBu)
-
-10 LED = 0.400 Vrms (-5 dBu)
-
-7 LED = 0.500 Vrms ( -4 dBu)
-
-5 LED = 0.600 Vrms ( -2 dBu)
-
-3 LED = 0.800 Vrms ( +0 dBu)
-
-1 LED = 0.880 Vrms (+1 dBu)
-
0 LED = 0.970 Vrms (+2 dBu)
-
1 LED = 1.070 Vrms ( +3 dBu)
-
2 LED = 1.200 Vrms ( +4 dBu)
-
3 LED = 1.320 Vrms ( +5 dBu)